Yamaha CA-1010

uncooked

uncooked

Active Member
My friend has one, seems like a decent amp, 60wpc i believe.

Retail
MSRP: $650.00
USED: $150.00
Wholesale
Mint: $85.00
Average: $50.00



Theres one for sale for 80 canadian, does it sound like a good deal? i know the 1020 is a fairly sought after peice of gear.
 
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Way more power than that! 18 W/ch in Class A (actually about 25 Watts), 90 W/ch in AB (actually 102 W/ch, 20-20K). A very nice integrated amp. Like an idiot, I sold mine off when I bought my McIntosh preamp. I had a recurring problem with the power on relay, but that's the only thing that ever needed service besides the pots and switches getting sprayed clean occasionally. Had it for 17 years.
 
My dad has one, it's in our basement, still being used.

In the Yammy manual it says like carbonman said, 18 class a, 90 X 2 in 8 ohms and about 110 X 2 rms in 4 ohm, and 140 X 2 at 4 ohms @ 1000hz i believe.
 
Assuming it works well, for $80 Canadian, it's a steal.
It's a great amp, overbuilt mechanically and electrically. Sonically it cn be a bit on the analytical side if you marry it with some sepakers, but otherwise will drive anything very cleanly.
 
Ive got a question.... Is there a class "switch" on the amp to switch it back and forth from class A - B etc...

My friend has some BIG ol cerwins like me but a different model. cerwins are VERY efficient, with my akai its like not even a quarter of a turn on my Pre, and the amp level is 1 notch above half. He has to turn it to like 1 O clock + to get it to where its playing loud.

So maybe if theres a switch to switch it out of class A he can get more juice out of it?
 
uncooked said:
Ive got a question.... Is there a class "switch" on the amp to switch it back and forth from class A - B etc...

My friend has some BIG ol cerwins like me but a different model. cerwins are VERY efficient, with my akai its like not even a quarter of a turn on my Pre, and the amp level is 1 notch above half. He has to turn it to like 1 O clock + to get it to where its playing loud.

So maybe if theres a switch to switch it out of class A he can get more juice out of it?
Click to expand...

Yes there is a switch.

Beside the speaker selector switch, there is a Class A/AB switch, Subsonic filter and High filter I believe.
 
And there is the muting switch over by the volume control. If it is in the -20 position, then it will take a large turn of the knob to get up to loud levels. Obviously this is to let you use more of the control's turn when you want to listen at quiet levels, and don't want to try making miniscule changes down near the bottom of the pot.
I like the CA-1000 better for two small reasons. The variable loudness control is gone on the 1010, and I like that. Also, the 1000 has two aux inputs not one, so I can connect a DAT and CD and two tape decks all at once. (It even has a mic input on the back, which works). But the 1010 gives you meters and a separate record out selector, which I used to use all the time on my NAD but have not missed now that I have the CA-1000.
80 CAD is a smokin deal for one that is in decent looks and works. I paid a lot more than that (minty looks) but Roger is happy, and I am too because the Yamaha vintage amps are great gear.
 
I went over to his house today, SURE ENOUGH it was on class A, flicked her to normal and theres more power. :D , now if he could get his woofs, refoamed he would be set.
 
uncooked said:
Finally got throught the guys voice message, and SOLD!
Dam :worried:
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Damn, man, don't you ever listen? ;)
You should have gone there and bought it PRONTO after all the endorsments it got here. I would have been happy to give someone $80 US for one that needed work done!
 
I couldnt get threw his voice mail, i left a couple messages. I left one 5 minutes after i first saw the ad, but i wasnt able to chat with him until the next day. I hate it when you have to deal with voice mail crap.
 
loudsubz said:
btw: if you need the manual for the ca-1010 uncooked, let me know I can scan mine for ya.
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Hi! I just acquired a CA-1010 and would really like to have a copy of the service manual too! My tech adjusted the bias setting of the unit and is working fine now but I would like to get the actual bias setting parameters set by Yamaha for this model. I read from one of the threads that the bias setting parameters is stated in the service manual.
loudsubz, can you email to me a scanned copy of the service manual? I would really appreciate it sooo much!!! Tnx
 
uncooked said:
I went over to his house today, SURE ENOUGH it was on class A, flicked her to normal and theres more power. :D , now if he could get his woofs, refoamed he would be set.
Click to expand...

Do yourself a favour, don't switch back and forth betweem Class A and Class AB with the power on. I just finished rebuilding the micro switches in a CA-800 because someone had been doing just that. When the amp is in Class AB there is about 50 volts on the big filter caps. When it is in Class A there is only 20 volts or so. The secondary of the power transformer is tapped and the micro switches change the taps. As you might imagine those big filter caps are not about to drop from 50 volts to 20 volts in 5 microseconds and there will be a backlash. On the CA-800 the Class A contacts were covered in soot and were pitted, I had to burnish them quite a bit to get a clean, smooth surface.

Rob
 
No wonder my house lights blink (yes, house) when I switch between A and AB. :yikes: Thanks, Rob... I didn't realize this.
 
I realize this is an old thread that's been bumped but can you guys here the difference between Class A and Class AB? Maybe my ears aren't as good as they used to be.
 
cabinover said:
I realize this is an old thread that's been bumped but can you guys here the difference between Class A and Class AB? Maybe my ears aren't as good as they used to be.
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I know I can't. I even tried to make myself hear the difference and still failed ;)
 
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