Want to get my philips GA212 back running

Regarding the platter mat: mine separated from the platter so I put a thin layer of Elmers glue on the metal platter. I centered the mat on the platter and put a large heavy box of albums on it to weigh down the mat for a tight glue bond to the platter. My strobe ring got kinked so removed it and don't use it on the mat.
 
Regarding the platter mat: mine separated from the platter so I put a thin layer of Elmers glue on the metal platter. I centered the mat on the platter and put a large heavy box of albums on it to weigh down the mat for a tight glue bond to the platter. My strobe ring got kinked so removed it and don't use it on the mat.

Elmers white water base glue is usually only good for porous materials and doesn't bond well to non-porous surfaces.
 
Regarding the platter mat: mine separated from the platter so I put a thin layer of Elmers glue on the metal platter. I centered the mat on the platter and put a large heavy box of albums on it to weigh down the mat for a tight glue bond to the platter. My strobe ring got kinked so removed it and don't use it on the mat.

Yes, my platter was loose too so I used spray glue, The platter is centered but the strobe ring is off, Won't be functional for me either, Will have to get another (paper or whatever)
 
I'm having the same issue with my 212, the motor won't stay engaged if i take my finger off the button. Also, this unit has 2 switch circuits off the main on/off switch. I may have not got the wiring correct. Can someone tell me which wire goes with blue, green, yellow and grey.
 
Grey and violet (blue) are on one pole and yellow and green are on the other pole. Be careful. On my, early, 212 the power switch poles are sideways but on the replacement switch I used the poles are down the length of the switch.
Rick
 
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I've heard mixed things about the bulbs being nessessary to function.

I am now on the side of 'they aren't' got the bulbs in today finally, threw them in and...
Still won't stay on the selected speed when i release the button.

hmmmmm...
I’m curious to know if you ever resolved this as I’m now in the same situation having replaced the power switch and lights and now they don’t stay on when selected. Appreciate this is a ten year old post!
 
I’m curious to know if you ever resolved this as I’m now in the same situation having replaced the power switch and lights and now they don’t stay on when selected. Appreciate this is a ten year old post!
The lights have to be to spec. and everything has to be right on the board as well. The wrong V/mA lamps can light, but the table won't work because the lamps are not correct for the circuit.

• Make sure the lamps are V/mA correct.
• Check the connections to the lamp sockets and board.
• Test the parts on the board, specifically those listed at the bottom of page 1 of the service manual, which I believe are featured there because they're key.
 
Thanks for quick response. The kit I bought online quotes 6v and ma .05, whereas the deck is 6.3 ma .44 so I guess that’s the issue. It was working prior to replacing the one burnt out lamp so I’ll put those back in and swop the dead 33rpm for the working 45 since I rarely play singles and see how that goes. Annoyingly, in replacing the switch I’m a tad short on one wire from the transformer so now have to source a 4mm long piece to make up the distance! You have to patience with these old machines!!
 
Thanks for quick response. The kit I bought online quotes 6v and ma .05, whereas the deck is 6.3 ma .44 so I guess that’s the issue. It was working prior to replacing the one burnt out lamp so I’ll put those back in and swop the dead 33rpm for the working 45 since I rarely play singles and see how that goes. Annoyingly, in replacing the switch I’m a tad short on one wire from the transformer so now have to source a 4mm long piece to make up the distance! You have to patience with these old machines!!
I’ve sourced the bulb. Once I get it back in shape I’ll report back because I know how important these legacy forums are for making repairs.
 
Never had any problems with 6 V 50mA or 6.3 V 44mA bulbs, so I don't think that is the problem. Probably an issue with the shut off circuit. Is the lamp okay underneath the table? You have to take the bottom off to see it.
 
Yep, the lamp underneath is fine and two of the lamps were fine on the deck, I just thought since I had to switch out a burnt one I may as well replace them all. I’m wondering whether testing them whilst I had it all apart would have any impact on them functioning correctly. As I say, I have to wait for a small repair to the transformer connecting to the switch before putting everything back together and we’ll see where it’s at.
 
YES~!

The lamps under the buttons are Special, They are part of the switching circuit.

So the buttons will not work properly without the correct voltage and current lamps.

I think they fixed the circuit in later production.
 
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Well, I’ve replaced the switch but the buttons still don’t latch when pressed, even with the correct 6.3w. It’s annoying as it was a working turntable until I started messing about with it.
 
I think I see the issue, I appear to have snapped one of the posts on a button. That’s going to be tricky to source!

*Edit - so I’ve got it working after a fashion. Switching on from cold the stop button lights, I get one shot of selecting either 33/45 (both light up ) but I can no longer return to stop which doesn’t light and the turntable carries on so I have to pull the plug. It’s not an elegant solution but at least it works until I can source a button!
 
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