shimniok
Super Member
Thanks for your patience with a tube noob. I know this has been asked before and I tried to educate myself before posting. Wanted to check and see if I am on the right track in fixing a red plating problem.
I have a Knight KG-250 integrated amplifier and just got a set of new "Winged C" 6F3P output tubes for it (6BM8 = ECL82 = 6F3P). The amplifier was recapped and gone through by one of my local pals / AK members. I tested on dim bulb and it seemed to be ok. On line voltage, however, one output tube started glowing red and quickly grew crazy f'n hot. I turned it off within a few minutes. Didn't notice right away.
I'm new to tubes and I did some searching on here. -- do I have the following correct... ?
I gather red plating is due to too much current/voltage (ie, too much power). It can be caused by loss of bias voltage (which is supposed to be negative, but if it goes 0 due to broken wire, or goes positive, can allow too much current). Can be caused by short circuit in the tube, or by coupling capacitor gone bad (presumably allowing AC to reach bias or...?), or by HF oscillation. Is that right? Am I missing anything?
Some things I plan to try -- suggestions welcome...
Testing the tubes for shorts. I will *try* but unfortunately the docs for my tube tester are incorrect for this particular tube type.
Checking socket hookup/wiring against schematic & other channel
Tube swapping -- is it the amp or the tube that has the issue? Will this burn up a tube if I shut it off within a minute?
Checking bias voltage -- quickly and safely
I have a Knight KG-250 integrated amplifier and just got a set of new "Winged C" 6F3P output tubes for it (6BM8 = ECL82 = 6F3P). The amplifier was recapped and gone through by one of my local pals / AK members. I tested on dim bulb and it seemed to be ok. On line voltage, however, one output tube started glowing red and quickly grew crazy f'n hot. I turned it off within a few minutes. Didn't notice right away.
I'm new to tubes and I did some searching on here. -- do I have the following correct... ?
I gather red plating is due to too much current/voltage (ie, too much power). It can be caused by loss of bias voltage (which is supposed to be negative, but if it goes 0 due to broken wire, or goes positive, can allow too much current). Can be caused by short circuit in the tube, or by coupling capacitor gone bad (presumably allowing AC to reach bias or...?), or by HF oscillation. Is that right? Am I missing anything?
Some things I plan to try -- suggestions welcome...
Testing the tubes for shorts. I will *try* but unfortunately the docs for my tube tester are incorrect for this particular tube type.
Checking socket hookup/wiring against schematic & other channel
Tube swapping -- is it the amp or the tube that has the issue? Will this burn up a tube if I shut it off within a minute?
Checking bias voltage -- quickly and safely
