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Altec 846B Valencia restoration next steps

So if the brain is working right, just using a cap gets you a 6db filter but also a 90° phase shift. Using the inductor as well gets you a 12db filter and 180° shift; just a polarity inversion. You're not high passing the existing horn, so a long gentle slope isn't ideal imho, you want it to come in where the existing high end is dropping off and not muck up below. Those size inductors are pretty cheap so no huge outlay.
Great information and food for thought – thank you! Definitely want to go with a steeper than 6dB/oct slope.

The phase shifts are giving me a headache, though. Since I am using the N1201-8A network the LF section is 2nd order (180 deg.) and the HF section is 3rd order (270 deg.) so now I wonder if
1) 180 deg is the best solution for the super tweeter, and
2) whether I should have wired my 806s/811 horns in reverse

… as for 2) I guess reverse or not, the phase difference to the LF is 90 degrees plus or minus so doesn't matter?

Last consideration and then I'll stop and start building the darn thing: Is the difference between a 8 Ohm and 16 Ohm L-pad negligible at this point? Everything else in my system has a 8 Ohm impedance so the 16 Ohm JBL 2405 is a bit of a rebel.

Cheers!
 
Great information and food for thought – thank you! Definitely want to go with a steeper than 6dB/oct slope.

The phase shifts are giving me a headache, though. Since I am using the N1201-8A network the LF section is 2nd order (180 deg.) and the HF section is 3rd order (270 deg.) so now I wonder if
1) 180 deg is the best solution for the super tweeter, and
2) whether I should have wired my 806s/811 horns in reverse

… as for 2) I guess reverse or not, the phase difference to the LF is 90 degrees plus or minus so doesn't matter?

Last consideration and then I'll stop and start building the darn thing: Is the difference between a 8 Ohm and 16 Ohm L-pad negligible at this point? Everything else in my system has a 8 Ohm impedance so the 16 Ohm JBL 2405 is a bit of a rebel.

Cheers!

Best thing to do about the phase is ignore it. Figure it out after with positioning and investing polarity. Doesn't matter what's right, matters what sounds best. I think you're best getting the correct lpad, it'll work but with what drawbacks is out of my experience.
 
I think you're best getting the correct lpad, it'll work but with what drawbacks is out of my experience.

Alright, I really tend to get sucked into these things too deep. I have two 8 Ohm L-pads lying around; I haven’t been able to find 16 Ohm L-pads so far, and if I do I have a feeling they will be too expensive.

So here’s my thoughts about the L-pad being 8 Ohm for a 16 Ohm rated speaker:

The maths part: Assuming I have understood how a 8 Ohm L-pad works with a 8 Ohm speaker, the following should be true:
1) at zero attenuation, the series R in the L-pad is close to 0 and the parallel R close to infinite; reflected impedance is 8 Ohm (for those frequencies the speaker impedance is actually 8 Ohm)
2) at full attenuation, the series R is 8 Ohm, parallel R is close to 0; reflected impedance is the 8 Ohms to ground
3) at half attenuation, the series R is 4 Ohm, parallel R is 8 Ohm; reflected impedance is 4 Ohm + the 4 Ohm from the 8 Ohm in parallel with 8 Ohm = 8 Ohm

Now if I apply the same values to a 16 Ohm speaker:
1) at zero attenuation: 0 + 16 Ohm = 16 Ohm
2) at full attenuation: 8 Ohms to ground
3) in the middle: 4 Ohm + (8 Ohm + 16 Ohm) / 2 = 16 Ohm

Considering the blanks between these 3 points fill in smoothly in a curve, does that mean that if I put a 8 Ohm L-pad in front of a 16 Ohm speaker, the reflected impedance stays at 16 Ohm from no attenuation to half attenuation and then falls off to 8 Ohm?

If yes, this wouldn't be all that bad – ”half” attenuation sounds plenty.


Or the other option: I get a few fixed resistors and try 3-5 different combinations until I find the one I like best.

Cheers!
 
I’ve also completed a restoration on a close cousin to your speaker, the Altec Flamenco. My cabinets were too rotted out. RBH Sound’s cabinet shop cnc a new pair from very heavy, inert material. My horns were ok. I recapped the crossovers and cleaned the pot. I used a 1.75” firm speaker foam panels to treat the walls. Purchased from Simply Speaker. I kept to the original design with three surfaces covered. Both woofers reconed by Matt at Utah speaker Reconing.

They sound amazing. What I want to do next, is bypass the crossover, and use a MiniDSP 2x4 HD to control the horn and woofer. Tune it up with REW.

You have done a nice job.
 

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I love that grill screen, what did you use?
Over here it’s just called “mesh fabric” – it’s really cheap stuff made from polyester or nylon; same that’s sometimes used for the mesh in bags, backpacks, etc.

It doesn’t hide the driver and it’s average good protection for larger (light) projectiles thrown by toddlers.
 
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They sound amazing. What I want to do next, is bypass the crossover, and use a MiniDSP 2x4 HD to control the horn and woofer. Tune it up with REW.
If you want to squeeze more performance out of your Altec drivers, great thought. I have been using a MiniDSP (SHD) with great satisfaction over the past few years for my M19’s.

Prior I updated the cross-over and made other improvements to the M19’s but the implementation of an active (DSP driven) cross-over made a huge difference.

Although the software provided by MiniDSP in combination with REW works very straight forward, it will take a bit of a learning curve and a lot of time to conduct measurements and interpret the data for optimizing your set-up. ;-) - what gives, it is a hobby!
 
I just realized I never really posted a photo of how my Altec Valencias ended up looking with finished crossovers and covered chicken-legs-on-caster-wheels:

View attachment 3759266

View attachment 3759268View attachment 3759269
So nice!

70bc41ab-9a76-4694-94a6-3d6351791e78.gif
 
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