Altec 848A Flamenco Purchased - Wow

Any comments on measured impedance as compared to ohm rating is invited.
You measured resistance @ DC(DCR).

Impedance is a function of frequency, generally varies with frequency, and is expressed as a curve either graphically or in a spreadsheet.

The example below is the measured impedance of an Altec 416-8B woofer.

Note both that the impedance has a large spike at the woofer's resonant frequency (~28hz), and that it steadily rises with frequency above the midbass band.

1774089473077.png
 
Going active made a huge difference in my Valencias.
Based upon Mike's suggestion and success with his 846B's, I did this with my Flamenco's a couple of years ago.

Ranes AC22 electronic crossover and 2 ASR-433 6BQ5 tube amplifiers.

I choose either a 600hz or 800hz crossover point, tending to like the 800hz better.

I like the fact that with separate woofer and horn amps I can taper the horn volume and crossover to my liking depending on the recording. (record or R/R tape)

Very nice refinishing job, btw!
 
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Excellent find. My Flamenco cabinets had bad water damage, along with being stored in a humid shed for 20 years. I had the woofers reconed, crossovers recapped. RBH Sound was kind enough to cut me new cabinets on IMG_1828.jpegtheir cnc. They are extremely heavy, solid as a rock. They sound incredible on my old Accuphase seperates.
 
Based upon Mike's suggestion and success with his 846B's, I did this with my Flamenco's a couple of years ago.

Ranes AC22 electronic crossover and 2 ASR-433 6BQ5 tube amplifiers.

I choose either a 600hz or 800hz crossover point, tending to like the 800hz better.

I like the fact that with separate woofer and horn amps I can taper the horn volume and crossover to my liking depending on the recording. (record or R/R tape)

Very nice refinishing job, btw!
I was thinking of adding a switch and installing bi-amp terminals, then use my MiniDSP 2x4 to run them. I get crazy great results with my emerald physics CS2.
 
As tempted as I am to follow Mike Gibson's lead, I am restoring these for sale (after I keep them for a while) and believe that authenticity plays a role in value. Right now I've got them set up in the main room and moved furniture around, it's a little cozy but they do have a sweet spot. With that eye towards sale I am also thinking of recapping which means build fresh from scratch. From the serial number I see they were made in late 1966. I have a schematic with Altec logo for the N-800F Network. I have another schematic for the Altec 30904/30923 attenuator equalizer network, which was an afterthought, later, I believe, that goes between the crossover outputs and the speaker inputs but is noted for the N-801F network, not the N-800F.

Any thoughts on which network may be in there shy of pulling it out and drilling the rivets? And trying the attenuator?

Altec_N800F.gif
 

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You measured resistance @ DC(DCR).

Impedance is a function of frequency, generally varies with frequency, and is expressed as a curve either graphically or in a spreadsheet.

The example below is the measured impedance of an Altec 416-8B woofer.

Note both that the impedance has a large spike at the woofer's resonant frequency (~28hz), and that it steadily rises with frequency above the midbass band.

View attachment 3724911
I wish I understood what you are conveying here. Did I have the settings wrong on my multi-meter, or am I doing something else incorrectly? I am aware that measured Ohm ratings differ from the rating. My confusion then comes in when trying to define what the correct measured ohm measurement should be. I have seen these horn drivers in other postings be as much as 2 ohms higher than my measures. Is one better than the other? And THANK YOU for sharing some learned wisdom.
 
I wish I understood what you are conveying here. Did I have the settings wrong on my multi-meter, or am I doing something else incorrectly? I am aware that measured Ohm ratings differ from the rating. My confusion then comes in when trying to define what the correct measured ohm measurement should be. I have seen these horn drivers in other postings be as much as 2 ohms higher than my measures. Is one better than the other? And THANK YOU for sharing some learned wisdom.
I'll do my best to explain while hopefully not adding any confusion.

Impedance is the measure of resistance of an AC signal, and in the case of a dynamic loudspeaker is frequency dependent.

Loudspeakers operate from an AC signal.

A multimeter generally only puts out a DC(0hz) reference from which it measures resistance. That measurement can be useful in determining whether a driver has a 4, 8, or 16 ohm nominal impedance. But, it is not a measurement of actual impedance, that is a bit more complicated and requires more tools including a frequency generator, or a software operated interface like DATS.

DATS - Dayton Audio - DATS V3 Computer Based Audio Component Test System

Measuring actual driver impedance really only becomes necessary for matching drivers and scratch building crossovers/filters.

I have seen these horn drivers in other postings be as much as 2 ohms higher than my measures.
There can be a few reasons for this.

Altec made a few different versions of diaphragms, and while 2 different versions might both be rated 16 ohms nominal, the DCR might differ as much as a few ohms between versions. There are also aftermarket diaphragms, particularly cheap imported examples that may vary a good bit from what we'd expect to see from a genuine Altec diaphragm.

Then, there are user variables like calibration of the multimeter, proper zeroing of the meter, crusty probes/terminals to name a few.
 
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Nice thread. The 416/811/800 series is pretty cool. Reminds me of Mt t old Model 19's. Just a thought: put your multi meter on the speaker terminals and GENTLY push the speaker cone. Watch the reading fluctuate. Static resistance is not too important, just as long as it's not too crazy out of wack. An AC sinewave is much more complex, but you can get a visual idea with a simple DC test. Nice score.
 
I mistyped, I meant no idea!
That is good stuff, Bicyclist! I ordered all the parts and will post when I get them done. What I am hoping is that the 30923 will make the horn a little more agreeable to my solid state receiver, old and Sansui as it may be. Or perhaps the crossovers just need to be up
Based upon Mike's suggestion and success with his 846B's, I did this with my Flamenco's a couple of years ago.

Ranes AC22 electronic crossover and 2 ASR-433 6BQ5 tube amplifiers.

I choose either a 600hz or 800hz crossover point, tending to like the 800hz better.

I like the fact that with separate woofer and horn amps I can taper the horn volume and crossover to my liking depending on the recording. (record or R/R tape)

Very nice refinishing job, bt

An informed Altec enthusiast may prefer them un-restored.

Depending on your intended market, less can be more. ;)
Absolutely agreed on maintaining originality whenever possible but with these, as my daughter said, you can't make them worse. They actually turned out even better than hoped for.
 
Based upon Mike's suggestion and success with his 846B's, I did this with my Flamenco's a couple of years ago.

Ranes AC22 electronic crossover and 2 ASR-433 6BQ5 tube amplifiers.

I choose either a 600hz or 800hz crossover point, tending to like the 800hz better.

I like the fact that with separate woofer and horn amps I can taper the horn volume and crossover to my liking depending on the recording. (record or R/R tape)

Very nice refinishing job, btw!
Thanks for the kind words on the refinishing, I have been surprised by how much of the spectrum the horn handles in this system, and how well. A 600hz crossover pushes it even further. But the woofer, on the other hand with either x-over point, really just gets to move the bottom end and that lets it really get there. Or so I think.
 
I'll do my best to explain while hopefully not adding any confusion.

Impedance is the measure of resistance of an AC signal, and in the case of a dynamic loudspeaker is frequency dependent.

Loudspeakers operate from an AC signal.

A multimeter generally only puts out a DC(0hz) reference from which it measures resistance. That measurement can be useful in determining whether a driver has a 4, 8, or 16 ohm nominal impedance. But, it is not a measurement of actual impedance, that is a bit more complicated and requires more tools including a frequency generator, or a software operated interface like DATS.

DATS - Dayton Audio - DATS V3 Computer Based Audio Component Test System

Measuring actual driver impedance really only becomes necessary for matching drivers and scratch building crossovers/filters.


There can be a few reasons for this.

Altec made a few different versions of diaphragms, and while 2 different versions might both be rated 16 ohms nominal, the DCR might differ as much as a few ohms between versions. There are also aftermarket diaphragms, particularly cheap imported examples that may vary a good bit from what we'd expect to see from a genuine Altec diaphragm.

Then, there are user variables like calibration of the multimeter, proper zeroing of the meter, crusty probes/terminals to name a few.
Thanks again, Bowtie427ss - Wisdom well shared. I'll clean terminals and wire ends on everything before buttoning up the back. Great reminder there. The terminals on the 416s are wonderful through-hole screw thread items, a well built speaker is to be appreciated.
 
Progress report here on replacing the crossovers and adding the Altec 30923 attenuation equalizer network as an option. I knew I would be building the crossover from scratch but wanted to be sure of the makeup of the original crossover, plus I wanted to maintain use of the l-pad for authenticity.
LRxPt-1310.jpg

Below is what you see after drilling out the spot welds on the crossover can. That is firm yet slightly flexible black something in there and I had been told here to try 200 degrees for a couple hours. I did it on the BBQ in a tin pan and never got to the melt point. After about an hour the cardboard surround allowed me to pull out the whole thing and peel it apart by hand.

LRxPt-1312.jpg

The two inductors side by side surprised me, I thought that was a no-no. The box above them houses the capacitors encased in wax.
LRxPt-1319.jpg

The black stuff, below, peeled away in chunks and was playable enough about about an our to pull wires away from it.
LRxPt-1327.jpg

There's a crossover in there somewhere:
LRxPt-1330.jpg


Interesting to me that the caps have color-coded wire. Red for one, black for the other.
LRxPt-1332.jpg

It ain't the prettiest thing, but I am so glad to say that it works, and does just what my ears were hoping for. Outside of the blue box in the image below is the rebuild of the N-800F crossover. In the blue box is the 30923 attenuator with the output for the crossover to the tweeter running through the attenuator, the red and black wires coming in at the bottom. Those wires could be connected directly to the tweeter to remove the attenuator from the circuit. But I am leaving it connected for a while as I like what it does. Previously the horn just seemed a little harsh (and I am on old 1970's Sansui solid state and (ahem) listen to CDs. I didn't spend more than an hour or two listening to these speakers previously, trying to get a sense of them. With the attenuator I find the bass more present and voices more ... listenable?

Altec90293.jpg

The speakers are all buttoned up for the time being. I want to spend some time with them They currently replace a pair of Bose 901s that I've had for a few months, and those are parked on top of a pair of Fisher XP-10s I still like, too. Of the three, these Altecs have better defined bass, and more of it at low volume which I really like. I haven't really cranked them yet, that will require moving some furniture to expand the space,

OH!!!!! The capacitors ALL had failed. Two were outside limits, and the other two could not hold a steady reading. The resistors were, as expected, in fine shape. I chose not to reuse the inductors but could have.

This is what Google had to say about the attenuator:

The Altec 30923 is a specialized network used to attenuate mid-frequencies

in Altec horn/driver combinations, specifically designed to smooth the "shout" or harshness from high-efficiency drivers. Often found in early-1970s Seeburg jukeboxes and used in vintage Altec systems, it bridges efficiency gaps between horns and woofers.
Key Uses and Functions:
  • Shout Reduction: It reduces excessive forward midrange energy in drivers (e.g., 802D) connected to horns (e.g., 511B), resulting in a smoother, flatter response.
  • Jukebox Application: It was frequently utilized in Altec speakers installed in Seeburg jukeboxes.
  • Constant Directivity (CD) Correction: It can provide necessary equalization for horn drivers to balance the frequency response.
  • Efficiency Balancing: The network helps attenuate the "ultra-efficient" horn drivers to better match the output level of the woofer.
The network provides a more balanced sound by attenuating the 1-6kHz range while leaving higher frequencies relatively intact.
 

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