So top left is the R336 hole
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Help!!! Need help with Capacitor C322 leg connections on MPX Marantz 150 Tuner
- Thread starter old_marantz
- Start date
So top left is the R336 hole
This photo looks like R336 connects to the ceramic cap.
What are you doing!!! You just want to solder the cap on the back side of the board the same way as shown in the photo from the internet. 
Did you drill new holes into the board, the problem is that you may open up copper traces on the backside of the board. The added cap should go between the emitter and collector of H305. I can't tell anything from your photo above. You need to show me the copper side of the board.
Did you drill new holes into the board, the problem is that you may open up copper traces on the backside of the board. The added cap should go between the emitter and collector of H305. I can't tell anything from your photo above. You need to show me the copper side of the board.No this is a picture from the link..not mine.What are you doing!!! You just want to solder the cap on the back side of the board the same way as shown in the photo from the internet.
Did you read my post…
“The plot thickens.
So I unsoldered the leg that remained and it was from the R336. It was on the leg of the side of R336 resistor with red circle. So, not sure what to do.
So why would a capacitor need to be in the resister path? I believe jap FM is different than USA FM.“
Wait a minute... the wire leg that you unsoldered was actually the long lead of R336 or are you just saying that the long wire was connected to the solder pad that has the lead to R336?
Also, since my heritage is Japanese-American, using the word "jap" is a derogatory term from WWII and not very kind. People of Japan should be addressed as Japanese. Thank you.
Remember I said one leg of the capacitor was still present. I unsolder that and that leg was connected to the R336 resistor (resistor on top board but the leg of the cap was connected to that R336 hole but on underside of board). Looking at the web site posted in the thread, there looks to be a red colored electronic (capacitor?)that’s connected …..this pic from website….to the R336 hole and the ceramic cap possibly.
Sorry…I was just using the 3 letters to shorten the Japanese word…less typing….noted.
Sorry…I was just using the 3 letters to shorten the Japanese word…less typing….noted.
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If it isn’t clear on how this cap is connected and this cap is not documented in the service manual, I can just send it to someone I found that specializes on 150 restorations.
If you do not feel confident that you can solder the new cap in, then by all means take it to someone more qualified. Good luck in your restoration.
If you compare the two photos of the backside of the board, you can see that the leads (photo on R) are connected to the same pads as the capacitor (photo on L)
It is less risky to mount the cap on the backside of the board because drilling new holes into a board populated with components is always troublesome and could be catastrophic.
Yes, many of the SM have parts that were modifications to fix production problems.
So, tell me which holes you think I need the capacitor solder to? And which are + and -.
I have a dim bulb so I can try what you suggest. No guts no glory…lol.
I have a dim bulb so I can try what you suggest. No guts no glory…lol.
See + & - symbols on this drawing. Attach cap to the back side of the board. You may need to lay it down so it doesn't interfere with anything else. You can also put heat shrink tubing or the insulation from a piece of wire over the leads so they do not short out to other board traces.
So, this is the picture (my board) of the leg (red arrow) and the solder blob (in red box) the leg came out of (R336). When I compare your pic of solder points to my solder points, I don’t think they line up. I’m guessing that it’s a difference in the way Japanese FM is received vs FM here in the US.
Ok..u da man…I’ll heat up iron tomorrow….i will owe u beers
Ok…what do you think?
I don’t have time to reassemble 150 tonight and then on the dim bulb…keep u posted 
Fingers crossed
Fingers crossed
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You are the man! Take a look! The STEREO light now lights after the capacitors were all updated and used my Sennheiser HD414, which I bought when I was 14 (I’m 67 now), sounds great. But it probably needs a realignment but I have no gear for that.
I have to say I really appreciate your help. I’m good at matching components and soldering but when something weird like this happens I’m SOL.
Send me your email.
I have to say I really appreciate your help. I’m good at matching components and soldering but when something weird like this happens I’m SOL.
Send me your email.