Sourcing Replacement Nylon Clips for SX-1250 Push-Switches

[Denver Rider]

Greetings everyone,

I am currently in the process of deep-cleaning the controls on my Pioneer SX-1250. I’ve noticed the right channel occasionally weakens, but toggling the Muting switch consistently restores it.

I actually performed a basic cleaning on these controls a number of years ago, which provided great results for a long time. However, now that the issue has resurfaced, I’m planning a more thorough service to address it properly. I intend to clean all the switches and potentiometers throughout the unit as part of this overhaul. To ensure the contact cleaner reaches the switch contacts effectively, I plan on removing the white nylon clips and wafer board from the switch housings (as shown in the image below). For the switches, I'll be using DeoxIT D5, and for the potentiometers, I plan to use DeoxIT FaderLube F5 to ensure they remain smooth and protected.

Does anyone know where I can source replacement clips for these units, or perhaps point me toward a 3D printer STL file for them? Given the age of the plastic, I’m concerned about the originals being brittle, and I’d love to have a few spares on hand before I begin disassembly.

I know there are various approaches to cleaning these assemblies, but this is the method I prefer for a lasting fix. I truly appreciate any leads or advice you can share!

 

[calman46]

Are you going to take the switches apart?
I don't think removing them is going to help you clean them. Drill the very small in top at the back, make sure the drill bit misses the plunger and body of the switch. They sell pin vise drill kits on that big river site
Those clips are made of that white nylon and will most likely break.

 

[Warren-Oates]

If you have not seen xraytonyb on youtube shows how he takes these type of switches apart, he has two video series on the 1250. It might be worth watching for you.

 

[Denver Rider]

Are you going to take the switches apart?
I don't think removing them is going to help you clean them. Drill the very small in top at the back, make sure the drill bit misses the plunger and body of the switch. They sell pin vise drill kits on that big river site
Those clips are made of that white nylon and will most likely break.

Thank you for your input — much appreciated.

I’m very familiar with the well-documented pin-vise drilling method and already have the proper tools on hand. If I’m unable to source the retaining plastic parts, I may very well go that route.

I also share your concern about the white nylon clips; that’s exactly why I’m being cautious before forcing anything apart.

Thanks again for taking the time to read my post and for sharing your experience — it’s genuinely appreciated.

 

[Denver Rider]

If you have not seen xraytonyb on youtube shows how he takes these type of switches apart, he has two video series on the 1250. It might be worth watching for you.

Thanks for the lead. I’ve actually seen that. Very well-made video. Thank you!

 

[zebulon1]

I don’t really like drilling holes. I know guys do and it works but I think there’s a less destructive solution.
These kinds of processes require a first time and maybe a sacrificial mechanism. Once you get the idea the next attempts will be successful.
I may have some replacement switches?
PM me.

 

[Denver Rider]

I don’t really like drilling holes. I know guys do and it works but I think there’s a less destructive solution.
These kinds of processes require a first time and maybe a sacrificial mechanism. Once you get the idea the next attempts will be successful.
I may have some replacement switches?
PM me.

Thank you — I appreciate that, and it’s good to know where replacement switches can be sourced if it ever comes to that.

I agree there’s often a first-time learning curve with these processes, sometimes involving a sacrificial mechanism, and the shared experience definitely helps everyone refine their approach.

For now, I do prefer to keep the conversation here on the site rather than moving to private messages. Keeping it public really helps with sharing knowledge and experience with the broader Audiokarma community.

Thanks again for the input — much appreciated.

 

[70's Rockfan]

It looks like there is enough room to use
small zip ties to put the covers back on.

 

[Denver Rider]

It looks like there is enough room to use
small zip ties to put the covers back on.

A very good idea thank you. Adding a small washer on top could act like the small dimples on top of the clip to keep the wafer pressed down.

 

[zebulon1]

Thank you — I appreciate that, and it’s good to know where replacement switches can be sourced if it ever comes to that.

I agree there’s often a first-time learning curve with these processes, sometimes involving a sacrificial mechanism, and the shared experience definitely helps everyone refine their approach.

For now, I do prefer to keep the conversation here on the site rather than moving to private messages. Keeping it public really helps with sharing knowledge and experience with the broader Audiokarma community.

Thanks again for the input — much appreciated.

I ment, to PM me if you’re interested in the donor switches.
I’m all for transparency or what’s the point of a forum?

 

[Denver Rider]

I ment, to PM me if you’re interested in the donor switches.
I’m all for transparency or what’s the point of a forum?

My apologies — I misunderstood.

 

[ElectTech]

Are you going to take the switches apart?
I don't think removing them is going to help you clean them. Drill the very small in top at the back, make sure the drill bit misses the plunger and body of the switch. They sell pin vise drill kits on that big river site
Those clips are made of that white nylon and will most likely break.

I have been using this approach of drilling a tiny hole in the top back of the switch and then injecting DeoxIT using a syringe. I saw XrayTonyB doing that. Before adopting this approach, I disassembled a couple of switches to clean them thoroughly, and it was not a good experience for me because I broke one of the switches but then was able to glue it.

Probably you guys have seen MendItMark restoring switches, and he is a Master. This guy from Japan is a Super Master in restoring potentiometers and switches. I am not up to that challenge.

Reviving the strongest preamplifier from the 70s: Part 1

 

[Denver Rider]

Greetings everyone,

I wanted to close the loop and share the results of this project.

Good news — the white nylon clips were not brittle and none of them broke during removal. Some of the switches had two clips; on those, I removed only the rear clip and left the wafer in place. I gently lifted the back of the wafer just enough to insert the DeoxIT nozzle extension and aimed the spray toward the front of the switch contacts. For switches with a single clip, I followed the same careful approach.

All switches were treated with DeoxIT D5, and the potentiometers were cleaned and lubricated with DeoxIT FaderLube F5. Everything went smoothly with no issues during reassembly.

Most importantly — the SX-1250 is now singing beautifully. The right channel issue is completely gone, and all controls feel clean and solid again.

I truly appreciate the advice and input from everyone here. Hopefully this follow-up helps the next person tackling these switches.

Thanks again!