Stretched exhaust bolts on GMC exhaust manifold

far more risk of ripping the threads out of the head than stretching the spark plug by any meaningful amount if it gets run in there too tight. Its the cost of repairing head damage I'd be concerned about here.
There is one very well-known Honda S2000 mechanic who always warns about that.

over torquing spark plugs - Billman.jpg
 
Hmmmm? I have a '19 Yukon with the 6,2. Hope I don't have this problem.
If it starts getting noisy, under the hood, visually check those exhaust manifolds.

If you need to do an R&R and want to DIY it, go from underneath. There is just too much junk on top that needs to be removed. It doubles the labor time and chances for boo-boos.
 
it usually shows up as a ticking sound when things start leaking, and you may see a few missing exhaust bolt heads.

Thus far mine is OK but I'm not poking at it. Currently more concerned with the hot coolant smell its starting to put out from under the hood. No idea where thats coming from, haven't seen any leaks but I'm sure it will reveal itself at some inconvenient time.
 
it usually shows up as a ticking sound when things start leaking, and you may see a few missing exhaust bolt heads.

Thus far mine is OK but I'm not poking at it. Currently more concerned with the hot coolant smell its starting to put out from under the hood. No idea where thats coming from, haven't seen any leaks but I'm sure it will reveal itself at some inconvenient time.
Are you losing coolant? Hopefully, it's just an overflow. :thumbsup:
 
Coolant level is slightly below the full mark but not entirely sure if it was at the full mark after I replaced the radiator or not.
 
far more risk of ripping the threads out of the head than stretching the spark plug by any meaningful amount if it gets run in there too tight. Its the cost of repairing head damage I'd be concerned about here.
In 55 years of changing spark plugs in my own vehicles, I have always used a spark plug socket on a 3/8" ratchet.
You tend to get a feel of what's tight but not too tight, never stripped a head thread, never had a plug come loose.

Tried a torque wrench installing new plugs on an aluminum head once, no anti-seize, I never made it to the specified torque-scared the heck out of me...
Went back to my old method.

Don't get me wrong, I really enjoying torquing to spec-just not spark plugs.
 
"Torque to yield".

Not a fan of that technology.
Yep, TTY or Torque To Yield. Not to hijack this thread, but I recently replaced the water pump on my 2018 Buick Encore with the 1.4L turbo-charged Ecotec engine. Plenty of YouTube videos revealed that I'd be replacing 8 TTY bolts, two in the water pump, three in the motor mount bracket and three in the mount. Many people say you MIGHT be able to reuse a TTY bolt one time, but I didn't want to take any chances! The bolts weren't cheap, as the majority of them had to come from the dealer. Still, I believe in doing the job right the first time!

Getting back to the OP's issue, I don't think that those bolts are TTY, but, as others pointed out, could be due to heating/cooling issues and that maybe a grade 10.9 bolt would be the answer.
 
Yep, TTY or Torque To Yield. Not to hijack this thread, but I recently replaced the water pump on my 2018 Buick Encore with the 1.4L turbo-charged Ecotec engine. Plenty of YouTube videos revealed that I'd be replacing 8 TTY bolts, two in the water pump, three in the motor mount bracket and three in the mount. Many people say you MIGHT be able to reuse a TTY bolt one time, but I didn't want to take any chances! The bolts weren't cheap, as the majority of them had to come from the dealer. Still, I believe in doing the job right the first time!

Getting back to the OP's issue, I don't think that those bolts are TTY, but, as others pointed out, could be due to heating/cooling issues and that maybe a grade 10.9 bolt would be the answer.
From what I read, they are non-graded or 4.8 bolts. Very soft steel for the job. Not very heat-resistant for the application (bolts to hold an exhaust manifold onto a cylinder head).

Stretched bolts and subsequent exhaust leaks are definitely not uncommon issues with these engines.

I never reuse a TTY bolt. If anything, you risk damaging the threads the bolts go into. To me, it's better to use new ones. :thumbsup:
 
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If it starts getting noisy, under the hood, visually check those exhaust manifolds.

If you need to do an R&R and want to DIY it, go from underneath. There is just too much junk on top that needs to be removed. It doubles the labor time and chances for boo-boos.
No more DIY under the hood for me on this vehicle. It is just too big.
 
Coolant level is slightly below the full mark but not entirely sure if it was at the full mark after I replaced the radiator or not.
Are you getting hot air in the cabin? Sometimes, air in the coolant line can result in odd symptoms. It's car-dependent.

:idea:
 
I have never had a car with this type of exhaust manifold mount. All the ones I have owned and worked on had a steel stud with a copper-coated nut.
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I have never seen a broken or torn bolt from the cylinder head.
 
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Mercedes w123, w126, w124 , G , Porsche 924, Audi, Renault 12 , 16. A few of the ones I've had the pleasure of working on. But nothing made in the USA.IMG_20210623_190910.jpg
 
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probably less troublesome honestly. Not 100% what my BMW engine has but I think it could be studs. Its been together for 42 years so far as I can tell, and I'm not really motivated to change that unless I have no choice.
 
Mercedes w123, w126, w124 , G , Porsche 924, Audi, Renault 12 , 16. A few of the ones I've had the pleasure of working on. But nothing made in the USA.View attachment 3688091

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Old BMW's, too.
 
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