What's the difference between Class A/B and D amps in the SS world?

Wharfcreek

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Without getting too technical, can anyone give me a rather nut-shell explanation of the difference between the Class A/B and Class D amps, and any benefits / detriments there-of? I'm looking at installing some upgrades to my Motorcycle's audio system, and I've been told that the Class D stuff is the way to go. I presume there's a reason for this recommendation, but I didn't get one. So, before I bite the bullet and buy the amp I'm going to use, I thought I'd do a bit more research on the subject. Obviously being a motorcycle, 'size' is an issue. Also there's a relatively limited supply of current available as well. I'm not sure what the total output of the Harley Davidson Charging system is.....but I've got to believe it's less than that of a typical automobile. Fortunately for me I have only a 2-speaker system, so I'll be running only one amp into some upgraded speakers using the factory head unit and a line adapter to connect the head to the amp. I'm told I'll also need a 'Flash' of the bike's head unit in order to compensate for some factory EQ settings that are recommended to be changed. But, I'm considering the addition of a 9-band EQ unit as well. As that's not a big current hog, I'm not too worried about powering it. But, back to the amps; if I can better understand the 'why?' of going with the Class D vs A/B, then I can probably pick a better amp for the bike. Any help is appreciated. Tom D.
 
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Class D amplifiers are incredibly power efficient. The theoretical maximum efficiency is 100%, but 90% is typical. Theoretical maximum efficiency of a class A amplifier is 50%. Essentially, class A and and AB amplifiers convert a fair bit of power to waste heat because they’re conducting when they don’t need to.

You can think of them sort of like a switch-mode power supply. They convert the incoming analog signal to a pulsed signal, encoded using varying techniques (such as pulse width modulation). The pulsed signal is passed through the switching amplifier (providing voltage and/or current gain), and then through a low-pass filter to recover the original analog waveform.

Any time you have power supply constraints, a class D amplifier is a good choice.
 
This thread makes me wonder something. I know of class A and class A/B but can’t seem to recall mention made of class B amplifiers.
 
Class d amps can be found very cheaply. Better ones cost more. To get the same amount of class d output from class a would need more power (especially with 12 volt power) and cost a lot more money. You aren’t looking for hi fidelity when you are just riding around listening to music while annoying anyone near you with your music.
 
This thread makes me wonder something. I know of class A and class A/B but can’t seem to recall mention made of class B amplifiers.
Class B amps simply have each side conducting for 180° of the input cycle. If you reduce the bias and you end up with each side conducting 179.9°, you have a class C amp with crossover distortion. If you slightly increase the bias so that each side is conducting 180.1°, you are into class A/B.

So class B is a very narrow operating range, and in practice it is never actually achieved.
 
Class B amps simply have each side conducting for 180° of the input cycle. If you reduce the bias and you end up with each side conducting 179.9°, you have a class C amp with crossover distortion. If you slightly increase the bias so that each side is conducting 180.1°, you are into class A/B.

So class B is a very narrow operating range, and in practice it is never actually achieved.

Thank you for the explanation.
 
This thread makes me wonder something. I know of class A and class A/B but can’t seem to recall mention made of class B amplifiers.
Only McIntosh has successfully made class B tube high fidelity audio amps, nobody afaik has made a successful class B solid state amp, because it's inherently unsuitable because it sounds awful.
 
FWIW, if I was still serious about MC audio, I'd be investigating later in-helmet setups. I don't know what's available now, but I'd want it linked into the hard hat to limit noise to signal and provide better intelligibility and enjoyment.
Since I don't do long rides anymore, I don't do ride audio these days.

Not intended as a thread crap, just my thoughts from my experience.
 
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I just don’t like the sound of class D for mids and highs. Sounds harsh and gritty. Works great for a car subwoofer though because low frequencies require a lot of power and a lot of power produces heat. A class D amp’s high efficiency makes it pretty ideal because it doesn’t get too hot or tax your electrical system, all while being pretty compact. So I can understand why it makes sense for a motorcycle. I care more about sound quality so I would still use a class A/B amp and then find the best sounding speakers that are very efficient.
 
Class D sounds exceptional in the JBL 308 monitor. It changed my opinion of class D.
 
My understanding from the motorcycle sound guys is that the better Class D amps really do sound pretty good. As has already been mentioned, the bandwidth for listening to a motorcycle stereo system is not as critical as that of home audio. I'm pretty sure that 'in-helmet' systems could emulate those of a good home headphone system. BUT...... I'm not so sure that there might not be some kind of safety issue associated with that kind of thing. If you imagine sitting on a deck with a beer and watching the BarBaQue.....if you had some sound going in the background, even if pretty loud, you could still hear other things going on. If you were kicked back with the cans on, you might not hear your wife screaming that the burgers were burning!! I guess my point is that while the struggle for good sound can certainly be achieved in some more effective ways.....there should probably be a line drawn somewhere that includes keeping things like hearing a horn honking within audible limits. I've been riding for nearly 55 years, getting my first bike at age 12 and now being 67. Only last year did I actually get a motorcycle that had an audio system. I only owned that bike for about 5 weeks.....and for the first 3 I had to do a lot of mechanical repairs. I then took off on a 10 day / 3000 mile trip. For the first 1500 miles I still didn't listen to the sound system (this bike was an '07 Street Glide with the stock HD system). Somewhere around the top of Michigan I decided to put in a CD and do some listening, and I was kind of 'hooked' from that point. I acquired a few more CDs on my stops along the way.....but sold that bike literally 2 days after I got back from my trip. Over the winter I bought and sold a few more motorcycles, all with audio systems, and finally ended up with this 2019 Street Glide Special. No more CD player, but I've now learned how to rip a CD and transcribe it to a stick drive in MP3 format and the bike plays those very well. It's just that the HD system, as supplied by the Factory, has a rather 'tubby' sound to it. For those HiFi guys who know how it feels to hear Horn speakers that can rather scream at you...this HD system has this 'speakers in a 55 gallon drum' sound to it that I find equally bothersome. Virtually everything I've read has indicated that the 'fix' is to install some better speakers, and put in a supplemental amplifier. This also includes utilization of this Line Level Adapter that has some filtering and adjusting capability, and supposedly also helps the entire upgrade. So, I guess we'll see how this all pans out. I have the speakers on order, as well as the line level adapter (Biketronics BT355), a mounting plate made specifically for installing amps in this model motorcycle, and even wiring kit. All this stuff should arrive this coming week. The only thing left is to make a decision on 'what amp to buy?' The choices are stacking up, but the recommendations still remain relatively slim. Mmats, Stinger, Hertz, JL, NVX, and a few more have made the consideration list. But, there's a pretty broad price range within some of these amps. The HD guys all say: "you get what you pay for!". I say you pay for what you get......then decide if you like it or not!
 
My only experience with speaker sound on an MC was on a Gold Wing Interstate I rode for several years with a ragged sounding Blaupunkt Key West head unit, I assume early class 'D' tech. Overall, speakers on a road bike is like heating a pole barn in an arctic wind. It can be done, but isn't efficient or particularly effective under the circumstances. My experiences with mc sound goes back to the late 1960s experimenting with hearing aid earpieces with custom ear molds on modified pocket AM transistor radios. Very efficient and effective for transcontinental trips in the 1970s, the pocket set went from a 4 transistor with headphones to a loudspeaker 6 transistor when the headset was unplugged for monitoring local weather during stops. It was set up for one or two earpieces, so one ear could hear surroundings with the single in the other ear as an option. Much later, Sony intro'ed Morita's pet Walkman project and brought personal hi fi into the worlds' pockets with the possibility of advancing my concept to stereo FM later with even better earpieces. The last setup I used was in fact Sony pocket radios into Shure E5 stage IEMs under my helmet, tho I don't ride with it anymore on my occasional short day trips. Definitely the best sound I'd achieved on two wheels.
 
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Class D amplifiers are incredibly power efficient. The theoretical maximum efficiency is 100%, but 90% is typical. Theoretical maximum efficiency of a class A amplifier is 50%. Essentially, class A and and AB amplifiers convert a fair bit of power to waste heat because they’re conducting when they don’t need to.

You can think of them sort of like a switch-mode power supply. They convert the incoming analog signal to a pulsed signal, encoded using varying techniques (such as pulse width modulation). The pulsed signal is passed through the switching amplifier (providing voltage and/or current gain), and then through a low-pass filter to recover the original analog waveform.

Any time you have power supply constraints, a class D amplifier is a good choice.

Switch Mode Power Supplies are also notorious for Electromagnetic Interference/Radio Frequency Interference. Equaling Hash!!!!
 
Switch Mode Power Supplies are also notorious for Electromagnetic Interference/Radio Frequency Interference. Equaling Hash!!!!
Pps for automotive class 'D' is inevitable, measures are taken to silence RFI for satisfactory radio reception. For home audio, pps silence is a crapshoot, some better than others. The pps bricks I play with for the nifty little chip amps are all over the place.
 
That RFI is something I've been warned about. Evidently one rather sacrifices radio function as a trade-off for having better sound in the pre-recorded function (USB Drive). Most HD posts on the subject have echoed the sentiment of some amps being worse than others. Supposedly the 'Stinger' amp is one of the best for NOT causing the radio to be worthless. Of the 5 amps I listed up in Post #14, the Stinger is the only one that has received any 'favorable' commentary regarding this RFI problem. As such, it may end up being the selection I make. However, I've had REALLY good results with JL stuff in the past...... going WAY back into early auto-audio history. There's also a Kicker amp that's in the running, and it too has history with me and past systems from years ago. I know both Kicker and JL have been around for a LONG time.....and I know nothing about Stinger, mmats, or Hertz (or the others). So....tough decision. Fortunately, I've got you guys to help guide me.

Is there any way to effectively shield the amp's RFI from being so invasive? Also, is this an 'emission' type RFI coming right out of the amp itself, or is this conducted on the power lines? One comment on the HD forum was to keep the amp as far away from the FM antenna lead as possible. If it's an emission RFI and making it's way into the antenna lead, what about doing something 'old school' like wrapping the antenna wire in tin foil......or something creative like that? I presume wrapping the amp would be an invitation for an thermal failure of some kind.
 
They have the RFI from class D very well contained these days. Class D has the advantage for very little heat dissipation - meaning no large heat sinks to keep it cool, so it can be very small, reasonably light, and still deliver decent clean audio power.
 
I learned a lot here: especially the difference between A and B, and what turns a B into and AB and why that matters. https://www.electronics-tutorials.ws/amplifier/class-ab-amplifier.html

It has other pages in the section on D and higher classes. https://www.electronics-tutorials.ws/amplifier/amplifier-classes.html

Due to its much smaller size per watt and greater power efficiency, D seems the way to go for just about any portable application.
Yup. I recently had to replace the factory in dash stereo in my truck. The new one is rated at 85wpc into 4 channels. It has to be class D to get that much out of a 1.5 DIN unit.
 
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