I love Japan the country and am mesmerized when I watch 7 part YouTube videos of this secret spot.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J-bCtZaJdCs
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J-bCtZaJdCs
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Which AKers are surfers?Local break pictures please.
- Thread starter theophile
- Start date
I don't know why it surprises me that the West coast is good,but I'd always only really given consideration to the Pacific side.
Lopez used to return from Japan in the '70s with tales of rivermouth waves that were perfect.
I know what you mean.
That rivermouth is perfect.
For New Years Eve I once had the pleasure to take a drive up the West Coast of Japan, from Kyoto, to a traditional end of year destination and rounding a bend I spied perfect glassy lefty/righty peaks. I wanted to strip to my unders and go bodysurfing but knew the water to be too cold...
That rivermouth is perfect.
For New Years Eve I once had the pleasure to take a drive up the West Coast of Japan, from Kyoto, to a traditional end of year destination and rounding a bend I spied perfect glassy lefty/righty peaks. I wanted to strip to my unders and go bodysurfing but knew the water to be too cold...
mfrench
Addicted Member
I went to school in Utah, and lived in Provo area. There is a large lake there, Utah Lake. My brother and I had out longboards there for playing around behind my uncles boat. He had a large heavy 24' SeaRay cabin cruiser, and it left a huge wake when you lowered the trim tabs and went in a long slow circle. It made for fun surfing.
At any rate, we also found that on windy days, with the right wind direction, that this lake had waves. It took a wind from the north and west to create the waves. They came in up against a long jetty that protected the boat docks and also diverted the end of the PRovo river out into deeper water. The waves were wind slop, but they kept lining up and peeling down the jetty very much like a long left point break. It was a fun thing to do, and it sure got looks from the local folk.
Do any of you skateboard?
I started out around 1964/65 with a red wood skateboard with metal wheels that was sure death if you tried to do anything other than to just go straight, as the wheel would slide right out. Then my dad bought a Hobie Sidewalk surfer, a laminated strips wood board fashioned after a surfboard, and it had clay wheels. Clay wheels were great, way better than metal wheels, but, would come to a dead stop if they hit anything larger than a grain of sand. I skated that board up until a board was introduced with urethane wheels, called a Cadillac(?, maybe it was just the wheels and trucks that were Cadillacs?). These urethane wheels revolutionized skating.
I lived in an area that was steep hillside, so downhill skating was what we did - not the high speed straight downhill stuff, but rather, long drawn out street wide turns, like linking left and right bottom turns, and cutting across the fall-line rather than just going straight downhill. We'd also sidewalk surf, gaining speed between houses and turning up into each driveway to dump the speed, and doing the way exotic for its time 360º at the apex of the driveway turn.
When I moved to Utah, we found a road called the Alpine Loop road that was about 17 miles of downhill skating, and could be as long as 25 miles depending on where the snowmelt line was. These miles were condensed into a much shorter straight line of about 4 miles "as the crow flies" because it was nothing but connected hairpin turns, with some straightaways between them. The local folk had never seen such a thing. This made for real easy hitchhiking from the lower parking area (at Sundance Ski Resort). you'd stick your thumb out, and they'd stop and give us a lift to the top, asking a million questions. Two runs would wear you out, and take a good 4 hours or so to complete. Great skating through such beautiful alpine terrain.
Spectrum77
Super Member
Hobie 9'6" in front of the local 'break' last night. Ah, the Nostalgia...
onepixel
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@app4dstnThis is big Steamer Lane in Santa Cruz. I usually surf smaller Cowells around the corner.
This kid is Nat Young from SC. He is over tearing it up in Hawaii now.
Then we have the Mavericks Crew.
I live on Maui, now. Lots of surf. One of my favorite longboarding is at Guardrails. Mellow and not crowded.
For experts.
Freight Trains, arguably the fastest right on the planet.
Peahi aka Jaws
Ma'alea(spelling) is probably amongst the best tube riding waves I have ever seen. Just screamingly perfect. Jaws is jawdroppingly heavy yet perfect. Maui spawned the Irons brothers. If that was its only gift to surfing that would be anough. Andy was a force of nature. 
Duke Kahanamoku gave the gift of surfing to Australia. Thank you Hawaii for that.
Duke Kahanamoku gave the gift of surfing to Australia. Thank you Hawaii for that.
onepixel
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Maui spawned and fueled many watermen and waterwomen. Launched many new water sports too.Ma'alea(spelling) is probably amongst the best tube riding waves I have ever seen. Just screamingly perfect. Jaws is jawdroppingly heavy yet perfect. Maui spawned the Irons brothers. If that was its only gift to surfing that would be anough. Andy was a force of nature.
Duke Kahanamoku gave the gift of surfing to Australia. Thank you Hawaii for that.
onepixel
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The Irons' home break is on Kauai.
The main surfs in Lahaina on Maui is the Breakwall and The Harbor. Those are on the left and not visible of this photo.
Don't know what this place is called. The groms like it.
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Thank you for correcting me. I should have got that right.
