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Yamaha CA-800 protection relay not working

Hello,
Last week I received the new components I ordered from Mouser.
I worked on replacing several components, including suspect resistors, checking various transistors, and replacing the four power output transistors in models MJ21193G and MJ21194G.

The result is that after adjusting the unit according to the manual specifications, I got both channels working.

It took me a while to find a fault that was causing one of the channels not to work (I thought it was a bad solder joint) until I discovered that the red wire connecting the volume and balance control board and the tone board output (red wire) was internally broken.

That said, I now have a stable unit playing in both Class B and Class A modes.

On the other hand, I've encountered two problems.

First, I have a noise with the speakers on but no audio. With audio, the noise is very clear and barely noticeable.

I should mention that the circuit boards are scattered on my workbench and not installed in their respective positions. Perhaps this makes it easier for a nearby signal to be induced, and this won't be a problem once the unit is reassembled and all the protective metal covers are put back on.

For example, when I touch the chassis of the filter board, the noise increases, like parasitic noise, and when I touch the loudness knob, it also increases. Could you confirm if this is the case, check something, or simply re-assemble everything?

The second problem I have is that the device goes into protection mode and activates the relay when I turn the volume up past halfway. When I turn the volume down, the device returns to normal and works correctly.

Could it be due to the replacement of the output transistors that they need to be adjusted to different values than those indicated in the service manual, since they obviously don't have the same characteristics?

Could it be that I need to modify the value of one of the resistors that regulate the operating voltage/power of the output transistors?

Thank you very much as always
 
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Could it be that I need to modify the value of one of the resistors that regulate the operating voltage/power of the output transistors?
No
Could it be due to the replacement of the output transistors that they need to be adjusted to different values than those indicated in the service manual,
No

Are you using a dim bulb while testing?
 
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No

No

Are you using a dim bulb while testing?
Yes, I definitely used DBT with low BIAS settings to verify that the unit is working correctly and there's no short circuit.

At normal volume, it remains quiet and stable. I've had it running for 20 minutes and everything is fine.

I understand that the recommendation now would be to adjust the BIAS to normal values without DBT?
 
No audio test is really valid with the unit open and all over the place. Every nut and screw matters.

When putting it back together, please pay particular attention to the volume, balance, and other front (and back) mounting screws, loose nuts generate hum and other irritating sound artifacts. After the fact it’ll be very difficult to find the source of the problem, so please be careful.
 
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Like Sparky said. Properly reassembled amplifier will likely reduce or eliminate your unwanted noises.
I understand that the recommendation now would be to adjust the BIAS to normal values without DBT?
Correct.
 
Indeed, I adjusted the bias without DBT to values close to those indicated by the manufacturer: 0.040mV (Class B) and 0.6V (Class A).

Honestly, I was afraid to increase it further in case it caused another problem, as I've had enough of those already.

So I tested it and enjoyed it for 45 minutes, and it's perfect. It sounds great, and all the controls seem to be working well without any noise or clicking. The voltage was measured during this time and is stable for both Class B and A.

There is some background noise (like parasitic noise) when there's no audio, but it's acceptable.

Now I just need to carefully and meticulously assemble all the parts to avoid any further issues, because I'm prone to them. I'm hoping the noise will diminish once everything is properly in place.


I want to reiterate my immense gratitude for the help I've received; I've learned so much.

Although I mentioned it before, I don't think I could have completed this project without your collaboration. So, sincerely, thank you for the patience you show with people like me, who aren't experts like you, and congratulations on this excellent forum for help and collaboration

Report final results as soon as you reassemble and test it
 
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I tried turning it off using a power strip without the switch, and it doesn't click when I turn it off; it only clicks when I use the power switch. This means it must be the switch itself that's faulty, not capacitors C731 and C732.

Not sure the switch cap is faulty.

Connect amp to a power board then try powering off at the power board or wall switch not amp switch, do you still get a pop?

I disassembled the switch and thoroughly cleaned the contact plates, they were black. I lubricated the small springs where the two pieces that actuate the plates are housed and adjusted the mechanism because the lever had play. It worked perfectly and the clicking noise disappeared.
 
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I've finally reassembled the entire unit. It took me over an hour to properly adjust the bias until it was stable.

The background noise is completely gone.

I'm happy and satisfied with the repair of this unit. Now the most important thing is to take care of it and enjoy it after the work is done.

I want to express my gratitude to everyone and I hope to share what I've learned with other members and continue learning from this wonderful forum.

As far as I'm concerned, we can consider this thread closed.

Best regards
 
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