'97 Ford Ranger, clutch master cylinder or slave?

[Frankie's Market]

Hi Folks, I have a 97 Ford Ranger, 2 wd, 5 speed, has 216,000 miles on it. About 4 years ago I had the clutch replaced and while having that done the mechanic suggested replacing the slave cylinder since it is the type mounted inside the bell housing, and when they go it requires dropping the tranny. So four years have passed, the truck runs fine with a lil exception.
A couple of weeks ago I was driving it to and from work, parked it as usual. When I started it up and tried to back out of the parking spot it would not go into reverse. Finally I shut it off, put it in reverse, restarted it and backed out. It would not go into first, so I repeated the process, shut off engine, put in first gear, start it up, and away I go.
I checked the fluid, the reservoir was low, but not empty, I topped it up. I brought it to the mechanic, he could not find any leaks, said he looked inside the inspection hole in the bell housing and it was "as dry as a popcorn". He bled the line, said there was no air bubbles that he saw. He took it off the lift and I drove home ( about 30 miles) and it felt fine! over the weekend I was driving it and suddenly I got a repeat situation, no reverse or first gear. The fluid level looks ok, but obviously something is wrong. How can I test the master cylinder and the slave cylinder? I assume one is not functioning. Advice? Opinions?

 

[beat_truck]

It sure sounds like a failing MC. At that age and mileage, I'd probably just replace it as cheap insurance. Even if it isn't the problem, they aren't expensive and the transmission doesn't need to be dropped.

 

[Mrv8q]

Exact same behavior was occurring in my ‘59 TR3, which Had me stumped. Decided to start with an
MC rebuild, which completely cured the problem for me.

 

[Tim64]

The Slave should be ok with only four years on it. The set up is the same as my chevy when I did the clutch I replaced the slave and left the master alone. The seals are likely just worn out and bleeding pressure past them which is why there is no fluid loss. Take your time bleeding the master I prefer to gravity bleed them it takes longer but less chance of a air pocket getting trapped in there. Dorman most likely makes one for your Ranger and I have had good luck with there products. The bleeder should be located on the slave you may have to remove a rubber cover to expose it on the tranny. Looks to be a few u-tube video's on how to do it, best of luck with it going smoothly.

 

[tom3]

Try stabbing the clutch a couple times, not clear down, just a couple inches, then push it down and see if you get release. Might actually be a clutch/pilot bushing problem if it started this all of a sudden.

 

[gadget73]

The seals are likely just worn out and bleeding pressure past them which is why there is no fluid loss.

My thought as well.

 

[noogies]

Try stabbing the clutch a couple times, not clear down, just a couple inches, then push it down and see if you get release. Might actually be a clutch/pilot bushing problem if it started this all of a sudden.

That could also work if the problem's hydraulic.

 

[Frankie's Market]

That could also work if the problem's hydraulic.

My first day out after a 7 day flu, I tried "Stabbing the clutch a couple of times" and I was able to slide into 1st. gear! Does that indicate a bad master cylinder or a problem with the clutch/pilot bushing?

 

[noogies]

To me a hydraulic problem seems more likely. Repeated "stabbing" can build enough pressure to actuate the fork.

 

[John James]

Now you're double clutchin' Baby!

 

[gadget73]

I had similar symptoms with a brake master cylinder. Pump it and it had a good pedal that held. Let off, next time you wanted brakes the pedal went to the floor and it slowly decelerated.

 

[beat_truck]

I had similar symptoms with a brake master cylinder. Pump it and it had a good pedal that held. Let off, next time you wanted brakes the pedal went to the floor and it slowly decelerated.

Exactly the symptoms I had when the brake MC went south in my Bronco II and Volvo 240.

 

[gadget73]

It took me a while to figure that out. It was a new part, it just didn't work right out of the box. I finally sent the car to my uncle and just told him to fix it, without telling him any of the stuff I'd tried already.

 

[beat_truck]

It took me a while to figure that out. It was a new part, it just didn't work right out of the box. I finally sent the car to my uncle and just told him to fix it, without telling him any of the stuff I'd tried already.

Don't you just love getting new (or reman) parts and finding out they are either junk when you install them or not long after? It seems to happen a lot these days. The fuel pump I replaced on my Dodge a few months ago just shit the bed after only ~1000 miles. Luckily I was only about a mile and a half from the house and was able to drift the whole way back.

 

[CougarXR7]

I had a hell of a time bleeding the air out of the master cylinder on my '94 Ranger when I replaced the clutch. As I recall, I had to remove the entire assembly from the truck so I could invert the master cylinder, and then tediously work the piston rod by hand until all the air was purged. If there is a leak, or if the fluid ran low in the reservoir and pulled in air, you may have to do the same thing. I don't know if it's possible to bleed it while it's installed in the truck.

 

[noogies]

I had a hell of a time bleeding the air out of the master cylinder on my '94 Ranger when I replaced the clutch. As I recall, I had to remove the entire assembly from the truck so I could invert the master cylinder, and then tediously work the piston rod by hand until all the air was purged. If there is a leak, or if the fluid ran low in the reservoir and pulled in air, you may have to do the same thing. I don't know if it's possible to bleed it while it's installed in the truck.

If you ever have to do it again, try a Mity-Vac.

 

[beat_truck]

CougarXR7 is on the right track.

According to the folks on the Ford Ranger forum I used to frequent, if the clutch master cylinder is run dry or installed dry, it can be hard if not impossible to get all the air out because of the angle it is mounted on the firewall. Sometimes it is necessary to take it loose and tilt it to get all the air out. Bench bleeding the new one before it is installed is the smartest thing to do.

When I replaced all of the clutch system on my old Ranger, I attached the hydraulic line and reservoir to the new master cylinder while it was out of the truck. The line has a check valve that only opens when it is connected to the slave cylinder or you push it open. I filled the reservoir, and pumped the piston by hand while bubbles came up through the reservoir until there was resistance when pumping. Then I pushed the check valve open until fluid came through. After that, the piston had good pressure/resistance when pushed and bleeding the slave cylinder was quick and very easy when everything was installed in the truck.