Any RCA Victor console experts here?

[markshan]

My mistake. I actually meant that I thought the small box with the 6BA6 might be a multiplexer. It appears as a separate box on the back panel info (pictured) but is physically part of the tuner housing.

If it is not an MPX unit, why does the tuner section say "Living Stereo" on it? In all honesty, if it is a mono tuner, I won't really have any interest in using that section.

 

[Tom Bavis]

1961 is too early for multiplex - broadcasting began in late '61, in a few locations, wasn't common for a few years.

 

[nashvillebill]

What's the impedance on the speakers in that console?

 

[markshan]

1961 is too early for multiplex - broadcasting began in late '61, in a few locations, wasn't common for a few years.

That seems reasonable but still leaves me wondering why they put "Living Stereo" on the tuner face. It seems that those were separate components which could be placed into consoles in whatever configuration the builder chose. I just don't get labeling that "Stereo".

 

[markshan]

What's the impedance on the speakers in that console?

I'll have to check but my guess is 8 ohm, since they use a series wiring system for extension speakers (you need a jumper to use just the ones in the cabinet).

 

[larryderouin]

That seems reasonable but still leaves me wondering why they put "Living Stereo" on the tuner face. It seems that those were separate components which could be placed into consoles in whatever configuration the builder chose. I just don't get labeling that "Stereo".

The TURNTABLE was STEREO. A lot of consoles started out as RECORD PLAYING Consoles, and as you went up the line, they added a tuner (1958 to 1961 was mono tuner or FM-AM simulcast stereo) and in late 61 / early 62 Multiplex came in and Now it was ALL Stereo. Yours is a '60 I believe. Beitman's manuals were I've found usually a year behind the gear. And the schematics came out of the '61 manual.

It's still a Stereo Turntable/preamp/amp but with a Mono tuner.

 

[markshan]

Yes, that seems to be the case. But if you look at the picture it says "Living Stereo" on the tuner itself, in addition to saying stereo on the changer and pre.

Now I understand what the FM/AM setting on the tuner is, and also understand why it says "Living Stereo". The FM/AM simulcast is new info to me and clarifies the whole thing. It also explains the separate tuning dials for FM and AM. Not MPX, but simulcast stereo. Thanks so much.

I can be a bit thick sometimes, but you clarified it for me.

 

[markshan]

I have a friend who wants the tuner anyway. I'll just use a separate tuner along with the pre/power build.

 

[audiozaz]

I have the Canadian equivalent, SHC-766, also 6CG7 + 6BQ5 PP. It's a good sounding amp. I've been working on mine lately and got it to a good state. The preamp you have will hopefully afford you some voltage gain as the power amp itself has none. The OPT's on mine are pretty good, likely you have the same thing. They deliver a full audio bandwidth at smaller power levels and are good down to ~40-50Hz at full power output. Enjoy!

az

 

[markshan]

I've been working on mine lately and got it to a good state.

What exactly did you do? Mods or just refurb? Did you make a thread chronicling your efforts? TIA.

 

[audiozaz]

What exactly did you do? Mods or just refurb? Did you make a thread chronicling your efforts? TIA.

Here are the various older acquisition and restoration threads:

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=274892

http://audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=275647

http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=279560

http://audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=276264

http://audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?p=3440729

Here is the most recent thread, still going on actually, where I'm getting more technical and adressing some issues I did not understand before diving in once more:

http://audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=545797

az

 

[larryderouin]

I just replaced the electrolytic's in the amp and pre/amp. Plus the paper caps. These will be the wax colored one's. No mods. I don't recall if I did a thread or not.

Larry

 

[markshan]

I just replaced the electrolytic's in the amp and pre/amp. Plus the paper caps. These will be the wax colored one's. No mods. I don't recall if I did a thread or not.

Larry

Were you happy with the performance? I think I can safely handle this.

 

[markshan]

Here is the most recent thread, still going on actually, where I'm getting more technical and adressing some issues I did not understand before diving in once more:

http://audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=545797

az

I found that one looking in your profile. I tried to read it but could feel my eyes glazing over. I'll check out the others.

Is there a mod which you particularly found beneficial that would be suitable for a person who is very novice at this? Thanks.

 

[audiozaz]

I found that one looking in your profile. I tried to read it but could feel my eyes glazing over. I'll check out the others.

Is there a mod which you particularly found beneficial that would be suitable for a person who is very novice at this? Thanks.

My OPT had its secondary CT grounded and output leads "floating". It made measuring stuff awkward and was in no way beneficial, so I rectified that, but your RS-177A is set-up properly. Other than that, I corrected layout mistakes I had made at the initial restoration. Both circuits are very similar otherwise and seem like fairly standard implementaion of the tubes. I'll have to see about my feeback scheme ultimately, it differs a bit from yours. I'm new to and still very much learning about tubes, so don't feel like I can give outright recommendations just yet other than be careful working on high-voltage circuitry.

az

 

[markshan]

Great info. Thanks so much.

Changing caps it is!

I don't plan on doing anything "hot". Are any of these caps big enough that they will require discharge before removal?

 

[audiozaz]

Great info. Thanks so much.

Changing caps it is!

I don't plan on doing anything "hot". Are any of these caps big enough that they will require discharge before removal?

The PS caps in my unit quickly go down to ~15-20V after the unit is turned off / mains unplugged. Best is to check with a voltmeter to make sure nothing too high is present IMO. Still, I've made my own discharger out of two separated tweezer prongs and a couple of 100ohm (IIRC) power resistors, where I isolated the prongs save for the very tip with a few layers of heatshrink tubing.

While it is a good idea to check operating voltages around the circuit, safety should be first and sticking to your comfort zone is a good idea.

az

 

[markshan]

Probable stupid question...

In looking at the schematic, how do I tell which ones are the can caps on top? The ones underneath have the values printed right on them. Thanks in advance for bearing with an insufferable newbie.

 

[jeffhamman]

Can caps

I could be wrong but on Magnavox the can caps are always assoc with the power supply rectifier so on the schematic say the 5y3 tube then look caps close to that tube.. usually at the bottom of the schematic or in that area. some cans might have 2 or 3 values caps inside the 1can which shows a symbol next to the cap printed on the outside of the can. hope this helps.

 

[markshan]

Thanks Jeff. The can does have values on it but I wasn't sure which side would go to which part of the circuit. You've given me some more info to work with.