M&K driver has two + and - wires?

TheMarco

Thrift Store Audiophile
Subscriber
I'm considering making my M&K Volkswoofer passive with an external mono subwoofer amp.

I opened it up and to my surprise there are two + and - wires attached to it.

Would I disconnect all 4 and just connect two of them to the mono amp?

I'm a bit confused.

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It's got dual voice coils, so you hook up to both to get the best response from it.

Watkins did this with the two windings being different ...?crossover points/ impedences so it smoothed out resistence and also extended bass response. The Volkswoofer will DEFINITELY function better with both hooked up. use two channels if you have them, if you only have one channel, measure impedence first to make sure you won't present a stupid low impedence load to the amplifier, then hook them up parallel.
 
It's got dual voice coils, so you hook up to both to get the best response from it.

Watkins did this with the two windings being different ...?crossover points/ impedences so it smoothed out resistence and also extended bass response. The Volkswoofer will DEFINITELY function better with both hooked up. use two channels if you have them, if you only have one channel, measure impedence first to make sure you won't present a stupid low impedence load to the amplifier, then hook them up parallel.

What exactly do I measure? Resistance of both separate or put the two red together and the two black and then measure that?

What should it measure to be safe to hook up both red wires to + and both black ones to - on the amp?
 
Operation successful. And the beauty of it is that it's 100% reversible. The two pairs of speakers terminals were even connected with little plugs so I didn't have to cut or even desolder anything.

No hum, no buzzing, no popping. Just nice tight bass.

Pretty darn sweet!

This little amp even has gain configuration so it now all runs like a normal sub (I don't have to run it full blast of add a gain thingy to increase gain)

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you could wire them in series and reduce the load the amp sees and probably get the same output. maybe a touch more.
 
Operation successful. And the beauty of it is that it's 100% reversible. The two pairs of speakers terminals were even connected with little plugs so I didn't have to cut or even desolder anything.

No hum, no buzzing, no popping. Just nice tight bass.

Pretty darn sweet!

This little amp even has gain configuration so it now all runs like a normal sub (I don't have to run it full blast of add a gain thingy to increase gain)

View attachment 2604911 View attachment 2604912 View attachment 2604913

Chances are you'll never have an issue, but my mind is screaming at me GROMMETS.
Or maybe 2 or 3 wraps of tape where they enter the cabinet.
 
Chances are you'll never have an issue, but my mind is screaming at me GROMMETS.
Or maybe 2 or 3 wraps of tape where they enter the cabinet.
i actually thought "butyl" since i have a big roll of 3m window weld. i'd just center the wire and pack butyl around it.
 
Chances are you'll never have an issue, but my mind is screaming at me GROMMETS.
Or maybe 2 or 3 wraps of tape where they enter the cabinet.
Yup this isn't yet final. I'll probably open it back up and try the serial idea and then put in some grommets.

It does work beautifully. Tight bass, no unwanted noises whatsoever. It's like new now.
 
Bummer not to have the original amp working properly. On the point of grommets, I know that when the little cap was removed from the frequency adjust hole on my V1B that sucker would whistle like crazy on low bass notes!
 
Bummer not to have the original amp working properly. On the point of grommets, I know that when the little cap was removed from the frequency adjust hole on my V1B that sucker would whistle like crazy on low bass notes!
THANK YOU!!!

I had been wondering what the hell that sound was. Now I know how to stop it again!

:bigok:
 
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