The False Claim that You Should Only Use Deoxit F5 on Pots

I switched from Deoxit to Corrosion X a few years ago and never looked back. With Corrosion X you don't have to wait for it to dry before applying power and it lasts a long time.
 
naphtha... i.e. (white gas, lighter fluid, spraying thinner, Coleman fuel),.. + 5% d100 = D5

not mineral spirits ... i.e. (paint thinner)

....and some refrigerant as a propellant

Naphtha is fast evaporating
Mineral spirits is slow evaporating and leaves oily residue

roll yer own and apply with a syringe
Naphtha is a solvent for styrene.
 
What is irritating is the lengths some people will go to to attack a great product. The same happens to WD-40. One wonders what the motive is. Did somebody from the company turn them down for a date?

Doug
WD-40 differs imho .. we had them tested and it is banned in one of the world's largest connector mfg factory where sensitive plated and raw machine parts are used and components being made ... it contains corrosive elements which I believes how it "loosen" rusted parts.

Use them at home for iron gates and hinges but I will never let it go near my hifi equipment ... I do not even use it on my bikes.

Cheers.
 
I'm a huge fan of the D5 aerosol can - press as lightly as possible and be rewarded with a flood of the product covering all surfaces and components in sight ... I mean wtf?

I have to spray it into a container and then use a toothpick to get it where I want it and only where I want it.
 
It takes a lot of practice to be able to control the spray. It still gets away from me every now and then, even after all these years.
 
I'm not stupid but I do find the various formulations of Deoxit to be confusing TO ME.
Caig screwed the pooch when they changed the names of their products to all be DeoxiT with different letters.
Used to be faderlube, deoxit, pro gold and such, kinda knew what to use. Then

Everything is Deoxit. Just an unappreciated move
 
I knew it was probably the tuning capacitor and that it was probably dirty/oxidized. Usually, the correct procedure is to remove the capacitor (the assembly with the blades which move and interweave in various amounts as the the tuning knob is turned). Then disassemble and completely clean all parts involved, reassemble, and reinstall.

However, I didn't really want to remove the assembly which requires disconnecting several wires plus the dial cord. So, I decided just to remove the mounting screws and tilt the assembly just enough to release one side of the flexible cover and spray (actually dribbled) some D5 on the bearings/contacts in the middle of the rotating shaft. These are made of brass.
dr*audio has a sticky in tuners about this: https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/how-to-clean-a-tuner-analog.144163/

Cleaning ones brass is what he mentioned, too.
 
Has anyone tried to deoxidize with 4-6% acetic acid (distilled white vinegar) and then give it a shot of liquid Coleman camping fuel or lighter fluid? I would think that the petroleum products would still have a bit of lube properties left to it . Maybe clean up with some 91% iso. I just got a circa 1979 Peavey Monitor 260 up and running that needs deoxed. I will give my idea a try and report back. If it does not work I will give it a shot of D5. Found this related thread from google. https://www.eevblog.com/forum/projects/have-you-ever-seen-deoxit-visibly-clean-a-connector/25/
 
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Naphtha products like lighter fluid are essentially residue free. May work well as a switch/ contact cleaning agent when worked while present. I use it as a cleaner/ wet lube agent on pins and pin clips when straightening and inserting tubes.
I use white vinegar to clean up leaking alkaline/ cadmium battery messes and corrosion. I don't see it as a contact cleaner.
 
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After I had used D5 on several of my components, I read that it will damage the pots carbon. I was like....oh crap what have I done!
Glad to hear that I don't have to worry about causing damage.
 
Mineral spirits, which is petroleum-based, is harmful to polystyrene type plastics over time, turning it brittle and even causing it to crumble, worst case. However, polystyrene isn't used in the assemblies (by reputable manufacturers, anyway) we are talking about here and mineral spirits is harmless to almost all other plastics.

Doug
I accidentally over sprayed some deoxit on the black plastic face of my favorite Denon AV receiver and didn't notice it till it was dry and now it has permanent little discolored spots on it :( so much for resale value...
 
my $.03....

Carbon track pots do not fix themselves.

By the time it gets to gummy, it has been damaged to some extent.

D5 will remove the gum just great. Perhaps even better than F5 as it has a higher solvent %.

Once you d5 or f5 something, it will need it again...you cannot escape that ever. It will likely need it well before the 40 years of the first time.

However, once D5 cleans it out, its straight wiper to carbon track contact. The pot will physically damage itself in short order.

If you have ever done this with any regularity, i.e. on HUNDREDS of units, it didnt take you long to discover that the 'lube' part of F5 does make a difference. It just does not lube ONLY the wiper to track portion, but rather the shaft or whatever inside as well. <-- this goes in the win-win column

tuning cap? a drop of model train oil on the ends. No Caig products.

Right tool, right job.

And NEITHER works on a relay, take it out, apart and re-polish the contacts (if you are not outright replacing)

FWIW, I used to D5, then F5 the pots...then to save on what is now 20 bux at most retailers, I just use slightly more F5 and save the D5 for switchy things and plugs.

if you REALLY wanna clean something out, the CRC contact cleaner for automotive works GREAT, but the metals in home stereo equipment may not survive.
 
As far as D5 is concerned like the Franks hot sauce commercial says I put that s*** on everthing
 
my $.03....

Carbon track pots do not fix themselves.

By the time it gets to gummy, it has been damaged to some extent.

D5 will remove the gum just great. Perhaps even better than F5 as it has a higher solvent %.

Once you d5 or f5 something, it will need it again...you cannot escape that ever. It will likely need it well before the 40 years of the first time.

However, once D5 cleans it out, its straight wiper to carbon track contact. The pot will physically damage itself in short order.

If you have ever done this with any regularity, i.e. on HUNDREDS of units, it didnt take you long to discover that the 'lube' part of F5 does make a difference. It just does not lube ONLY the wiper to track portion, but rather the shaft or whatever inside as well. <-- this goes in the win-win column

tuning cap? a drop of model train oil on the ends. No Caig products.

Right tool, right job.

And NEITHER works on a relay, take it out, apart and re-polish the contacts (if you are not outright replacing)

FWIW, I used to D5, then F5 the pots...then to save on what is now 20 bux at most retailers, I just use slightly more F5 and save the D5 for switchy things and plugs.

if you REALLY wanna clean something out, the CRC contact cleaner for automotive works GREAT, but the metals in home stereo equipment may not survive.
To reiterate: don't use D5 in pots. Use DN5. It is actually formulated for pots. Yes, I know it's twice as expensive, but it's good product.
No affiliation.
 
To reiterate: don't use D5 in pots. Use DN5. It is actually formulated for pots. Yes, I know it's twice as expensive, but it's good product.
No affiliation.
Despite cost for a can the actual cost per application is low enough to make it a good value. Lucky for me I still have older deox cans of various versions laying around.
 
Despite cost for a can the actual cost per application is low enough to make it a good value. Lucky for me I still have older deox cans of various versions laying around.
Yeah. A can tends to last a pretty good long time. The old style LMH cans can still be found, but at a premium over the retarded and universally reviled "smart straw".
 
To reiterate: don't use D5 in pots. Use DN5. It is actually formulated for pots. Yes, I know it's twice as expensive, but it's good product.
No affiliation.
Ill have to check this out as I learned a new acronym today! lol
 
Yeah. A can tends to last a pretty good long time. The old style LMH cans can still be found, but at a premium over the retarded and universally reviled "smart straw".
you mean the straw with enuf force to wash dried cat vomit off a carpet? can expend the entire can in the time an MP5 machine gun can empty a clip? THAT one?
 
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