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Another Super High End Phono Stage! No expense spared...

Hey! That is great!!! 2012 will start with a bang when it arrives. My kinda Happy New Year.

Please give us a heads up about the cost for each piece and I'm guessing that S&H will be a function of how many of each board we will be getting.
.
 
Sachin,
Those boards look great, and what a nice early Christmas present too.
PM and Payment sent.
Ron

As long as the chip is a Jfet type, is there any problem in swapping out different ones? Reading good things about 1028 and 797 types.

Ron
 
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Sachin,
Those boards look great, and what a nice early Christmas present too.
PM and Payment sent.
Ron

As long as the chip is a Jfet type, is there any problem in swapping out different ones? Reading good things about 1028 and 797 types.

Ron

If you mean an AD797 then you will need two of them in an adapter as they are single circuit. Also the AD797 works best with a low impedance input and would not be ideal in the SSP or the CNC IMO.

Jfet is not the issue it's using a dual circuit op amp that matters.

The OPA2134 typical Burr Brown sound, warm and laid back, LME49720 fairly neutral with low noise and good detail, AD823 good bass, detail and my preference, LM4562 forward and detailed but can be too much so to the point of irritation.
 
HypnoToad,
Thank you for answering my similar question(s) in two different threads. I thought others who only follow this thread might benefit from the same information. Current draw is an important consideration using battery power.
I did have a reason. ;)
Roll, Roll, Roll yer Amps, in the CNC.
One is too bright, One is to dark, Sounds just right to me. :)

Ron
 
I just got a new pair of AD823s in my CNC, and the rustling noise I had is now gone. I had to replace both because accidentally zapped both of them will disconnecting the batteries I had powering it. I didn't hook them up backwards, but the 9V battery terminals I bought are just individual positive and negative terminals, so if you aren't careful yanking them off, one can hit the other terminal, and instantly fry your op-amps.

I highly recommend using an anti-static wrist strap when handling the op-amps. Normally I would disregard the little warning on the anti-static bag they come in and just make sure that I wasn't actively rubbing my feet on the carpet or standing in a lightning storm while installing them, but they seem fragile enough that it's worth the extra precaution to use a wrist strap. They are like $6 at Radioshack, or just tie a bare wire around your wrist and ground it.

I'm convinced the one I had before that was rustling was probably damaged during handling. I'm not buying that one of the two op-amps I had was trash right out of the box. Electrical components are more reliable than that.
 
Am I too dumb ?

Am I too dumb to build this circuit? or should there be (2) AD823ANZ in the BOM?
Ron


Qty X Part No: > Description

2 X ECW-F2225JA > CAP FILM 2.2UF 250VDC RADIAL
2 X EEU-FC1E101S > CAP ALUM 100UF 25V 20% RADIAL
2 X K104Z15Y5VF5TL2 > CAP CER 0.1UF 50V RADIAL
1 X AD823ANZ > IC OPAMP JFET R-R DUAL LN 8DIP
1 X ED90105-ND > IC SOCKET 8PIN .300 SOLDER TAIL
1 X SSL-LX5093IT > LED 5MM RED TRANSPARENT
3 X ERO-S2PHF8201 > RES METAL FILM 8.20K OHM 1/4W 1%
2 X RNMF14FTC10K0 > RES MF 1/4W 10K OHM 1% AXIAL
2 X ERO-S2PHF1003 > RES METAL FILM 100K OHM 1/4W 1%
2 X RNF14FTD100R > RES MF 1/4W 100 OHM 1% AXIAL

These are manufacturers part numbers so they should work with Digikey and Mouser except for the 10k and 100 ohm resistors. The extra 8.2k resistor is for use with the LED.

Alternatives from Mouser are:
2 x CMF5510K000FHEK > 1/4watt 10Kohms 1%
2 x CMF55100R00FHEB > 1/4watt 100ohms 1%
 
Table of Contents

Here is a list of significant items in this thread. Worthwhile comments and questions are scattered everywhere.

At nearly 800 posts and almost 50,000 "views", this thread has more traffic than most stickys, and all in only 8 months. That is significant!


..........Item.................pg./.post.........member

Original schematic.…......01/010........fasterdamnit
Original Layout......….....03/033........HypnoToad
Layout #2...............…..08/106........HypnoToad
1st PCB......................12/174.........HypnoToad
Tips #1................…....12/180.........HypnoToad
Tips #2...............….....13/189.........HypnoToad
CNC BOM.............….....13/193.........HypnoToad
List of opamps........…...32/471.........shelly_d
CNC schematic .jpg…....39/572.........ghazzer
SSP BOM................…..51/762.........HypnoToad
Omshira’s PCB layout.....52/775........Sachu888
.
 
Summary, so far...

Thanks ghazzer.

I am back from my holidays. Thanks to Sachu888 taking it forward.

I am adding direct links to these posts.

..........Item.................pg./.post.........member

Original schematic.…......01/010........fasterdamnit
Original Layout......….....03/033........HypnoToad
Layout #2...............…..08/106........HypnoToad
1st PCB......................12/174.........HypnoToad
Tips #1................…....12/180.........HypnoToad
Tips #2...............….....13/189.........HypnoToad
CNC BOM.............….....13/193.........HypnoToad
List of opamps........…...32/471.........shelly_d
CNC schematic .jpg…....39/572.........ghazzer
SSP BOM................…..51/762.........HypnoToad
Omshira’s PCB layout.....52/775........Sachu888
.
 
Wow,
Holly "more than you could ask for" Batman!
You guys on this Forum are too cool!
Thank you very much.
HypnoToad, Ghazzer, Omishra

HT, I was asking about the CNC, guess I got confused (not hard for me) because of the MANY options discussed about the different boards and possible builds of such.
Maybe I'm smart enough after all. LOL.
Thanks Guys.

Ron
 
Thanks ghazzer.

I am adding direct links to these posts.


Good call Om! I should have thought of that, but going through all those posts for the nth time had almost put me to sleep early. Now all I have to do is remember post #791 and go from there.

There really is a LOT of good questions, information and links in this thread.

Have a Happy - - -
.
 
Wow,
Holly "more than you could ask for" Batman!
You guys on this Forum are too cool!
Thank you very much.
HypnoToad, Ghazzer, Omishra

HT, I was asking about the CNC, guess I got confused (not hard for me) because of the MANY options discussed about the different boards and possible builds of such.
Maybe I'm smart enough after all. LOL.
Thanks Guys.

Ron

Ron,

Don't feel rained on. I have the same problem. There is the CNC thread, the LO/HO/MC phono pre thread, the Simple pre thread, the how to build a Phono Clone thread. I'm as easily confused as you are. I have a hard time keeping up with which I am reading and posting in.
 
Board needed and PM sent.

I want to slip it in place of the phono section of my PAS 2. Will likely still use a battery PS.
 
Oh by the way I'll apologize if I'm out of step here, I read the thread to like page 27 yesterday so I'm sure I've missed something along the way.
 
Board needed and PM sent.

I want to slip it in place of the phono section of my PAS 2. Will likely still use a battery PS.

That will work fine. If you get a 4 pole double throw switch for the face of the PAS it could turn the phono stage on and off as you turn on the linestage of the PAS.
 
That will work fine. If you get a 4 pole double throw switch for the face of the PAS it could turn the phono stage on and off as you turn on the linestage of the PAS.

True, though I was thinking I could use the DPST loudness switch for the phono power. Then I wouldn't need to power the phono section while listening to CDs etc.

Also,I have plenty of inputs to have 2 phono lines and as I have already built a SUT for my DL103 could make use of 2 TTs.
 
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