fdejong
Super Member
Yup, one small step at a time
It'll be an achievement if I simply manage to recap this one any time soon. My last project stalled despite having all the parts ready to go. Need....more....time!
Bitten by the tube bug
- Thread starter fdejong
- Start date
Yup, one small step at a time
It'll be an achievement if I simply manage to recap this one any time soon. My last project stalled despite having all the parts ready to go. Need....more....time!
fdejong
Super Member
Well, I finally got to this project. I have to admit, I'd been using the amp (nervously) in the meantime.
I stopped and re-tested after the first few cap replacements just to make sure everything was still ok.
All in all I'm very happy! Sure, it's not the prettiest recap but I'm mostly just happy that it's all still working as it should!
Here's the end result:
And one shot in situ connected to my DAC, CD Transport and netbook running spotify.
I stopped and re-tested after the first few cap replacements just to make sure everything was still ok.
All in all I'm very happy! Sure, it's not the prettiest recap but I'm mostly just happy that it's all still working as it should!
Here's the end result:
And one shot in situ connected to my DAC, CD Transport and netbook running spotify.
fdejong
Super Member
Umm, that's a good question re: the rectifier. I don't see one - maybe someone else can chime in?
As for control - it's connected to a small Grant Fidelity DAC/Preamp that's sitting under the laptop.
It depends on the circuit, obviously, but I haven't found any vintage 12AX7s that I like less than GEs. From the US manufacturers, Sylvania and Raytheon are my favorites.
It looks like there are some diodes on the PS board right next to the PT.
markn2wae
Mark T N2WAE
Did you notice the circuit breaker and did you fix it?
The bottom view shows a "push to reset" circuit breaker that has the rear plate "popped out" of its holder and could short to the chassis or something else.:nono:
You may be able to salvage it by replacing it back into place and GENTLY tighten the holding clips.:scratch2:
Mark T.
The bottom view shows a "push to reset" circuit breaker that has the rear plate "popped out" of its holder and could short to the chassis or something else.:nono:
You may be able to salvage it by replacing it back into place and GENTLY tighten the holding clips.:scratch2:
Mark T.
shelly_d
Not An Audiophool
Diodes are set way down on the board in the center way in the back, partially hidden by the raised resistors.
Look close.
Shelly_D
fdejong
Super Member
The bottom view shows a "push to reset" circuit breaker that has the rear plate "popped out" of its holder and could short to the chassis or something else.:nono:
You may be able to salvage it by replacing it back into place and GENTLY tighten the holding clips.:scratch2:
Mark T.
Yup, I noticed that too. I did what you suggested and it's holding up ok. If I work on it again, I may just remove that reset switch altogether. Not sure what purpose it serves.
fdejong
Super Member
Ah, ok, so that's what those do!
It is worth changing those to another solid state rectifier?
shelly_d
Not An Audiophool
Live with these for a while. Get a feel for how much you like the amp and if you feel the desire to want to make it all it can be you might consider some Ultra Fast diodes like these:
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=UF4007virtualkey51210000virtualkey512-UF4007
Even though they cost only few cents each the shipping would tend to be the expensive part, so you probably want to plan out any orders in advance to minimize the number of shipments. I doubt that by themselves they will be a great upgrade to the amp so when you consider the sipping cost these are in the realm of diminishing returns.
Shelly_D
fdejong
Super Member
If those are little black diodes, they are a solid state rectifier.
They are. Just wondering if it's worth upgrading them to something else.
Dandy
Addicted Member
I see the diodes now--hard to spot on my small laptop display. Shelly_D's suggestion to add them to your next parts order is good. Can't hurt to put new ones in, making sure you observe polarity.
Mark T's note about the circuit breaker raises the point of whether there is a chassis base and whether this is clear of the boards, etc. Hard to tell from the pics, but it looks as if something could short if placed on a conductive surface. It may just be the pics.
Mark T's note about the circuit breaker raises the point of whether there is a chassis base and whether this is clear of the boards, etc. Hard to tell from the pics, but it looks as if something could short if placed on a conductive surface. It may just be the pics.
Similar threads
